The Tailcoat, part 2

After cutting and assembling the main pieces of the tailcoat I have proceeded to the small parts: pocket flaps, cuffs, and collar.

The easiest first: pockets. I haven’t bothered to make functioning pockets, only the pocket flaps. The flaps are not merely decorative though, they are important for the overall silhouette. Sometimes they even have buttons, stylistic leftovers from the previous era. The actual pockets are often hidden in the pleats on the tails.

Tailcoat_Pocketflap_ Regencygentleman

Pocket flaps: I cut the pieces, wool for top and linen for lining, and sewed them together on three sides, leaving the top open. Turned the right side out and pressed, before sewing them on to the coat. They are slighty angled and nearly reach the side seams at the back.

Tailcoat-cuff-regencygentleman

Cuffs: The narrow sleeve is finished off with a cuff. On a Regency coat the cuff is long over the wrist. It is slightly flared. It is cut wide enough to overlap but can be left unbuttoned. There is no opening above the cuff like on a modern jacket or shirtsleeve. Each cuff is constructed out of two layers of wool, folded. The sleeve is sandwiched between these two layers. As I mentioned before: the wool is really easy to work with. The stitches just seem to disappear.

Collar:

Tailcoat-collar-1-regencygentleman

Cutting three layers for the collar: top and bottom wool and linen interlining.

Tailcoat-collar-2-regencygentleman

Padstitching the interlining to the bottom layer of the collar.

image

Tailcoat-collar-3-regencygentleman

Padstitching done. The stitches are visible if you´d lift the collar. Interlining trimmed, and the collar stitched together at three sides and turned right side out.

Tailcoat-collar-4-regencygentleman

The collar is steamed and shaped. Ready to be sewn on to the coat.

Tailcoat-collar-5-regencygentleman

The undercollar and facing pinned to the coat. The seam will be covered by the outer layer, see image below.

Tailcoat-collar-6-regencygentleman

The edge of the topcollar is folded under and pinned, ready to be stitched.

Tailcoat-collar-8-regencygentleman

The finished collar. Still needs to be pressed.

 

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