A New Tailcoat! Part 3.

So, I worked on the tailcoat this past week. This is when I was lining the tails:

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Right side of tails.

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Inside view of tail. Whip stitching lining to outer fabric. (The lining is very dark indigo irl.)

Then I was about to start on the collar and lapels – when I changed my plans. It was really going very well, padstitching done, but on Sunday afternoon I realised this wasn´t what I wanted… August and all, and here I was making this warm and cumbersome garment.

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After some quick research I made a big change to the design. I cut off half of the front and one inch off the tails (front edges). No photos of the process, but you understand what I mean with these following images. At a quick glance there is nothing new to see, but actually this type of coat has a more restrained design. It doesn´t close, in the same fashion as modern tailcoats. No flapping fabric.

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Le Beau Monde, 1807

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1807

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1803

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1805

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Le Beau Monde, 1808

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And a painting: Louis-Léopold Boilly – The Downpour c.1805 – detail

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Instead of this (as seen on Colonel Fitzwilliam in 1995 P&P)…

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… we have this. (As seen on Darcy in 1995 P&P.)

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Or this, if you prefer: Mr Bingley. (1995 P&P)

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The coat in its demolished state.

 

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But now with neatly stitched edges.

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Shoulder seams done.

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Some awkward angles in front of the mirror.

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New cut is promising.

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Weird without waistcoat and breeches, but you get the idea.

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Sleeves! Appears blue here but it is still same green wool. Two pieces. Slightly gathered to ease in.

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Sleeves pinned in place, right sides together, then basted with a running stitch. (White thread.)

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White thread is removed when the proper stitch is done.

Next time I hope to present a finished coat. (Complete with collar, cuffs, buttons, and pocket flaps.)

 

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3 thoughts on “A New Tailcoat! Part 3.

  1. Mr. Elton,
    So far, so good. I would like to make a request. If it is not too late, could you post some photos of how you attached the sleeves. Do they have the “gathered” bit at the shoulders? How do you treat the cuffs? Buttons on the cuff? Also I am interested in the collar which, I think, may extend up on the neck. Thanks.

  2. Pingback: A New Tailcoat! Part 4. | Regencygentleman

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