Another Waistcoat

I made the bold decision to start the new year with a waistcoat. It is not a project of gigantic proportions, but something to keep my hands busy these dark nights. Striped fabrics were fashionable for several decades during the neoclassical period from the late eighteenth century until at least the 1810´s, or so. Gentlemen who wished to be a la mode could invest in a waistcoat with the stripes running either vertically or horisontally. With this in mind it is obvious that my Regency wardrobe is in desperate need of a horisontally striped AND double-breasted waistcoat. I found this fiercly elegant waistcoat online through Colonial Williamsburg. Who can resist it? I like that the buttons are relatively small and self-covered and placed in two neat rows, not too far apart. I also like the simple collar and the elegant lapels that are just there, without making a statement. If you want more details visit the Williamsburg website here.

Waistcoat Williamsburg

Waistcoat, striped pink silk 1780-1800 Origin: Europe or England. Pink and cream silk satin with horizontal stripe, linen lining. Double breasted style with lapels and standing collar. Horizontal pocket welts. Waistcoat is cut straight across at waist. Back of plain linen with fitting ties. Colonial Williamsburg.

A different waistcoat. (From where? Had this image for ages.) It shows the adjustable tabs even though it is unnessecarily bulky.

Costume Parisien 1811.

Come January and all, I am reluctant to spending a lot of money. Now, modern gentlemen´s shirts are often striped, aren´t they? After a look in my closet I found this rarely used Italian shirt. Heard of Alessandro Fellini, anyone? I guess it was rather expensive at some point, but I was not emotionally attached to it and decided to repurpose it.

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Many fine details on this shirt. Figured I would not likely wear it again, but the striped cotton is nice and the colours match my coats and breeches.

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Carefully cutting the pieces. The back had just enough material for the waistcoat fronts.

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The cotton is rather thin, so I decided to interline it with mustard linen, to give it some weight. Seen here with a strip of heavier linen to give support to the buttons.

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Inside of right front sewn here with the facing. It needed some piecing, so there are two seams following the stripes and one vertical seam.

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Again the right part, folded along the seam with the linen interlining sandwiched between the striped layers.

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There is a lot of work left to do, but couldn´t resist starting on the buttons. The cotton is woven in diagonal stripes, so I decided to use this effect here.

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I think these metal buttons work fine. Fortunately they are not too expensive. I need at least a dozen.

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Lapel and button.

 

Now for some more linen to cut the back!